In 1968, John Lennon, Paul McCartney, George Harrison, and Ringo Starr all came to Rishikesh for a transcendental meditation retreat. After attending a lecture in London by the already famous guru, Maharishi Mahesh Yogi, the band decided to take the plunge and travel all the way to the yoga capital of the world for an adventure that would make history.
The Maharishi Mahesh Ashram, more generally known as “The Beatles Ashram,” is a fourteen-acre compound that now lies in ruins, due in large part to the controversy that surrounded their visit. After several weeks of meditation, lectures, and a whole lot of song writing, a rumor arose that the guru had made a pass at Mia Farrow, who also happened to be attending the course. While no other witnesses seemed to be able to verify the incident, it wasn’t the first time the Yogi had been accused of less-than-holy behavior.
Like a season of celebrity survivor, they left the ashram one-by-one and soon spoke publicly of their disillusionment with the guru and his whole scene. They even wrote the song “Sexy Sadie,” which was originally titled “Maharishi” until Harrison objected due to fear of being sued. The only person that really came to the guru’s defense was Deepak Chopra, of all people, who had been a student of the guru and said the foursome was doing drugs and not taking the course seriously. According the new-age author, the Maharishi got fed up with their hi-jinx and asked them to leave. But considering the number of reporters waiting anxiously outside the ashram gates, something tells me that story wouldn’t have slipped by so easily.
Whatever really happened here, the trip has been credited with weening The Beatles off of LSD, bringing Eastern culture to the West, and in general, being the most productive period of their career. During their stay, they wrote over 30 songs in less than 2 months, including the entire White Album and several tracks from Abbey Road. Many years later, however, the band recanted their story. McCartney and Harrison apologized publicly and McCartney even performed at a benefit concert for an organization associated with the guru.
If you ever make your own journey to Rishikesh, and I strongly suggest you do, The Beatles Ashram is a must-see. It’s located at the very end of Ram Jhule, the spiritual side of Rishikesh, just past Parmarth Niketan Ashram. Technically it is closed to the public, but for 50 rupees (or a little under $1) paid to a less-than-official looking security guard, you are welcome to take a look around. Alternatively, you can climb the wall pretty much anytime you want but be careful, there is a lot of barbed wire and a whole bunch of judgmental monkeys waiting to watch you make a fool of yourself trying to get around it.
